Why Some Hair Treatments Work While Others Fall Flat

Thinning hair or balding of the scalp are not the end of the road for your hairline. Modern treatments and surgical transplant methods have evolved to the point where it’s now relatively simple to either rejuvenate the scalp to prevent balding, or to repopulate existing bald areas via a safe and affordable hair transplant procedure. However, the rising popularity of hair loss treatments has also led to a concerning surge in the questionable application of quick-fix solutions, warns a leading hair restoration expert.

According to Dr. Kashmal Kalan, Medical Director at Alvi Armani South Africa, conversations around thinning hair and receding hairlines are coming out of the shadows as more people seek guidance on whether to treat or transplant.

“Professional hair treatments and transplants have steadily become mainstream over the past couple of decades, offering men and women a viable solution for hair loss.

“But with this surge in popularity, an unintended consequence is the rise of clinics pushing Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) therapies for nearly every hair loss concern – even in situations where it isn’t appropriate or beneficial in any way,” he warns.

Avoiding the treatment trap

While PRP is potent under the right circumstances, helping to revitalise follicles and stimulate hair growth, it’s entirely pointless when applied regions where there are no follicles left, notes Dr Kalan. “Unfortunately, some patients are running the risk of getting incorrect assessments at clinics that only offer PRP as a one-size-fits-all solution.

“But beyond being a waste of time and money, ineffective treatments often knock patients’ confidence and can discourage them from seeking more legitimate, effective care. We’ve had countless patients who had undergone multiple PRP sessions elsewhere with zero results, hoping that we could rectify the issue. And while we can offer help, the longer someone waits to consult professional experts, the more advanced the hair loss may become, and the tougher it is to turn things around.”

He emphasises the importance of proper research before any consultation, discussing various treatment options with a qualified doctor, and determining the severity of your hair loss in order to make a more informed decision.

Consultation and understanding hair loss scales

An essential first step in the hair recovery process and determining the appropriate treatment route is identifying the type and extent of hair loss.

During the initial consultation at professional clinics such as Alvi Armani, experienced practitioners examine the patient’s history, visible patterns of hair loss, and the overall condition of the scalp.

Doctors will then perform several assessments to gauge hair loss severity and place the patient on a recognised scale. The Norwood-Hamilton scale is most commonly used by clinics worldwide, but has significant limitations.

“The Norwood-Hamilton scale is an excellent reference under certain conditions, but was developed more than 50 years ago with Caucasian men in mind, and isn’t as inclusive for other ethnicities or modern presentations of hair loss. Our Alvi Armani Hair Loss Scale is therefore used alongside Norwood-Hamilton depending on each patient’s unique needs.”

Dr Kalan explains the implications of different levels of follicle health by comparing them to levels of hospital care:

• General ward: Patients in this category have mild hair loss, and often respond exceptionally well to treatments like PRP, provided there’s sufficient support and lifestyle alignment.
• High care: Patients here have moderately weak hair follicles, but can still recover with intensive therapies such as repeated PRP sessions and medication. However, the success rate of improvements is less certain.
• ICU: These patients have critically damaged follicles, and in such cases, the situation might not be salvageable through regular treatments. As a result, the most effective option may be hair transplant surgery.

“Unless you know which category the follicles fall under, you can’t prescribe the right treatment. PRP won’t magically bring hair back where follicles no longer exist – that’s like a doctor trying to revive a patient using a simple vitamin drip. It’s simply not going to work.”

Setting realistic expectations

Even with top-tier medical interventions, hair restoration is neither instantaneous nor foolproof. While many patients see significant gains, the outcome depends on individual biology, the extent of follicle damage, and consistency of post-treatment care.

“We’re not wizards and hair restoration isn’t magic – it’s a sophisticated surgical procedure that requires an expert, medically-trained touch. While impressive transformations are possible and seen regularly within our clinic, there’s also a limit to what can be achieved, especially if the patient seeks help too late. As doctors, we owe it to our patients to be candid about potential outcomes and to avoid taking on hopeless cases.”

Dr Kalan strongly encourages awareness and early intervention. He recommends that patients consult reputable clinics the moment they notice their hair thinning so that they can choose a cosmetic procedure before balding spreads to the donor area – at which point options become far more limited.

Author: Refilwe Rakgomo